Saturday, December 1, 2007

A Close To California

The 2007 harvest in the Alexander Valley of California is coming to an end and my time here is coming to a close. I must admit, the end of harvest, or “crush” as it’s called, always surprises me. Just when I’m getting in the groove of the crushing and pressing of grapes, pitching yeast, watching and smelling the fermentations, the circus of crush comes to an end. As it is with the beginning, the end is also something I look forward to. It would come as no great surprise that, though I consider myself a morning person, setting my alarm to a time other than 4:30 a.m. every day has a certain appeal. But that is not the full reason the end of harvest arrives so welcomed. Rather, it is an occasion that comes with it, one that is literally worth raising a glass.

A couple times a week I find myself sitting down around a large, white, round table covered with glasses of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petite Verdot. There, with the Winemaker, Assistant Winemaker and Cellar Master of Ferrari-Carano Mountain Winery, I taste wines that are now in tank and soon will go to barrel. These tastings are a way for the winemaking team to start categorizing the new wines in terms of quality. This “force ranking” will help decide what program the wine will be designated for. This in turn can dictate what type of barrel the wine will go into and how much time it may spend in that barrel. Often as many as 25 wines at one sitting will be tasted, notes taken and decisions made. For me, it is not only a chance to taste the new wines but an opportunity to get a sense of the region where I have been living and working for the last 3 months.


In a couple of days we will be finished with our tastings. The last wines will be put to barrel, tucked away in the labyrinth of caves that honeycomb the hill next to the winery. Then, crush will truly be over. And for me? What’s next? That’s a good question, and one I’ll get to soon enough. With winter on its way here I know summer is not far off else ware on our little planet and there, Fall will not be far behind. With Fall comes harvest and another opportunity to make wine. Before that, however, I think a much needed rest is in order, maybe somewhere……south?